#Difference in transgo shift kits install
Even thought it's not necessary (and very hard) but if you do the vette servo make the correct changes and install while the pan is off to check band clearance with or with out the gold spacer supplied in the transgo kit, same goes with using the stock servo and modifying it.Īll in all its not that hard just have to be cautious and look over everything twice. I've done two and it's not that hard, just make shure you make up your mind on the servo first. I got the torlon checkballs since they seal better on the plate and aren't supposed to get stuck in the plate either. Is that what you guys have? If so then that is all you need except for new checkballs, i wouldnt leave the old ones since they do get stuck and are under constant wear. I wouldn't be afraid to do the kit just be thorough and make shure you follow all the steps the instructions and the thread has, make shure you not only read it but understand it.Īlso what kit do you and have, the typical shift correction kit from ctpowetrain is this: The servo is a pain to get to and is up to you if you want to do it or not, if it shifts good then just follow the shift kit instructions for you servo, it should say which one to do.Īs for the checkballs the 8th seems to be the one from the case side so make shure it goes back in the case, you can hold it in place aswell as the other 7 with some vasaline. (Make shure you have a jack under the trans cross member at all times!)
#Difference in transgo shift kits driver
To do the servo you have to remove 4 bolts that cross through the trans cross member then loosen the bolts facing the floor on the driver side first by a little bit to allow it to lean to the passenger side when you lower thoose enough to gain space to get to the servo. Servo that you should have gotten in the kit. Make shure you do follow the instructions in the transgo shift kit for the servo and do it for the vette.
You should also check the accumulators and make shure they aren't stuck either. Make shure all solenoids and electronics are connected, and check to make shure the springs aren't cocked or stuck in their bores. Will this work or do I need to swap it will it's still out of the car and the trans is dry?ĭavid ColeI have used both 67-1, and 67-2, 67-1 is firmer than stock, but not quite as firm as I wanted.I would definitely go back in and check to make shure you followed all of trans go instructions, I have done 2 of these exact kits before with no problems. He just remembered "Transgo" and ordered what he thought I wanted. The SK-6 was listed as the only Transgo in his Transtar parts catalog and the 67 1-2 did not say "Transgo", just 67 1-2, and a part #, no name. Instead of the 67 1-2 he put the SK-6 in it. I also told him to put a shift kit in the valve body. Needed a drum, sprag and some different thrusts to to get the endplay right in addition to the rebuild kit. Figured the bench rebuild by him would be the way to go as he had parts/access to parts. However, I knew the trans would likely need some hard parts that I did not have. I could have done the rebuild myself if it only needed a rebuild kit. He used to work for a Trans rebuild shop and now does general mechanical work + trans rebuilds. I recently pulled the C-6 out of my 67 Fairlane GTA. Night Special that should be just a few hundred rpm higher stall than the stocker I pulled. 3.70 gears (soon to be 3.50) Converter is a new TCI Sat. Also have an adjustable "Black Stripe" modulator.Ĭar is a 67 Fairlane GTA, mostly stock 390, small unknown hyd cam (just a slight lope to idle), 3X2 carbs, stock manifolds w good dual mufflers.
The SK-6 is listed as "Car, Truck and Diesel". How will this shift kit work in my car compared to the 67 1-2? What is the difference in shifting between a Transgo SK-6 and a Transgo 67 1-2?
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